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Thread Selection
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Selecting the right thread for your quilting project can be a daunting and confusing task. With so many types, how do you know which one is right for you?
Don't dispair. There is a simple way to figure it all out.
As far as possible, thread type should be matched to the fabric being used.
Therefore, use cotton thread for cotton fabrics, silk thread for silk fabrics and polyester thread for any heavier and/or manmade fabrics.
First let's start with thread sizes:
One of the most confusing areas for beginner and experienced quilters is thread size.
Through the years, different sizing systems for thread have been developed. It varies by the construction and fiber--natural or synthetic.
It is best not to put so much emphasis on the numerical size of the thread, but rather on what is the most desirable trait for your quilt. The best way to select a thread is sew with it and determine if it gives the look you desire for your quilt in terms of color match or contrast, luster and stitch definition.
THREAD CONSTRUCTION
Most general purpose thread is made from polyester fibers, cotton fibers or a combination of the two. There are three ways of making threads:
* by spinning staple fibers
* with a continuous filament
* or by combining the two processes in core construction.
Spun cotton thread begins with cotton staple fibers. Cotton thread is generally 3-ply. Extra-long staple (ELS) threads use longer fibers for a smoother, stronger thread.
Spun polyester thread begins with polyester filaments which have been cut into approximately 1 1/2" staple lengths. These threads are usually less expensive and somewhat fuzzy.
Long staple or tow spun polyester thread begins with filaments which have been stretched and broken into 4-5 inch lengths resulting in a smooth, uniform thread.
Core construction begins with a core of strong continuous multi-filaments of polyester. These filaments are then wrapped with long staples of polyester or cotton. Two strands or plies are then twisted together. This type of construction, used for Coats Dual Duty threads, provides strength of the continuous filament core and the sewing performance of a spun surface.
Thread Count, What does it mean?
- Simply put, thread count is the number of threads per square inch in the fabric.
- It determines the quality and weight of the fabric.
- Threads are counted for both the length and width of the fabric.
- If there are the same number of threads in both directions, the fabric is an "even weave." And fabrics with more threads in one direction than the other have an "uneven weave."
- Fabrics with an even weave are easier to work with as you make a quilt, since the fabric will have the same amount of "give" in both directions.
- The weave of a fabric can affect both your piecing and your quilting.
If the fabric has an uneven thread count:
- it tends to shrink more in one direction than the other
- it will be more difficult to get short, even hand quilting stitches
- it may shift around as you machine quilt
The other consideration is the number of threads per square inch. For high quality quilts, you want to have fabric with a little higher thread count than normal.
If the weave is too loose, your quilt will fray and fall apart sooner than it would otherwise.
On the other hand, if the thread count is too high, it is very difficult to piece and quilt.
Choosing Thread Color:
- Though thread color depends on your personal preferences, there are a few rules of thumb for choosing thread color based on how you plan to use the thread: Decorative or top stitching thread color depends entirely on how you want the finished quilt to look.
- When basting, the stitches are usually made using a brightly colored thread that contrasts with the fabric so they can be easily found and removed once permenant stitches have been sewn.
- For piecing, the thread be the same fiber content as the quilt fabric thus preventing diffierent shrinking dimensions and should also be neutral in color so it doesn't interfere with the look of the work.
- Make sure to use only colorfast thread, which won't bleed in the wash or lose color over time.
Thread Types:
Cotton:
The most important characteristic of Quilting thread or any other thread is quality. Whether it is
polyester or cotton, a quality thread is smooth and strong, has good stitch definition and leaves little or no lint on the machine.
Quality cotton threads begin with long staple cotton fibers. Longer staple fiber threads (the term Extra Long Staple or ELS refers to this) are processed, spun and twisted into a single strand or ply. In cotton threads, three plies are twisted together to form the thread. Mercerization increases the dye affinity in cotton thread, as well as improving its luster, strength and color fastness. Threads are then gassed or singed to remove protruding fiber ends and finished with a special lubricant to reduce friction and abrasion.
Advantages of Cotton Thread:
* soft
* durable
* easily adjusts to changes in the fabric (such as shrinkage) since it is
* a natural fiber
* available in various thread weights
* easy care
Disadvantages of Cotton:
* low sheen
* not as strong as polyester
* low-quality cotton is linty
Polyester:
Polyester is used in the manufacture of many products, including clothing, home furnishings, industrial fabrics, computer and recording tapes, and electrical insulation. Polyester has several advantages over traditional fabrics such as cotton. It does not absorb moisture, but does absorb oil; this quality makes polyester the perfect fabric for the application of water-, soil-, and fire-resistant finishes. Its low absorbency also makes it naturally resistant to stains. Polyester clothing can be preshrunk in the finishing process, and thereafter the fabric resists shrinking and will not stretch out of shape. The fabric is easily dyeable, and not damaged by mildew. Textured polyester fibers are an effective, nonallergenic insulator, so the material is used for filling pillows, quilting, outerwear, and sleeping bags.
Advantages of Polyester Thread:
* Durable. Designed for heavy duty use
* Strength. More tensile strength than rayon or cotton.
* Colorfast
* Retains shape
* Recovers stretch
Rayon Threads:
Rayon is the one of the favored thread among professional embroiderers. It is a soft thread,
available in great colors, and suitable for all forms of machine embroidery. Rayon thread holds up well with high-speed stitching without breaking or fraying and it also consistently performs well. It is easily available in many embroidery stores and in a wide range of solid and variegated colors, as well as in a "twist" thread composed of two or more solid colors twisted together to form a single strand. They are available in a light 50wt, standard 40 wt. and a thicker 30 wt.
Advantages of Rayon Thread:
* high sheen
* softer
* relatively heat resistant
* less elasticity then polyester
Disadvantages of Rayon:
* not colorfast
* not as strong as polyester
* less durable than polyester
Silk Threads:
Silk thread absorbs dye more brilliantly than any other fiber, and is truly the top of the line when it comes to specialty
threads. It sews smoothly without breaking, and offers the embroider the strength of polyester and the stability of cotton. It also has a distinct sheen unmatched by any other thread. Silk threads are available in a variety of sizes and colors, but the 30 to 50 wts. are appropriate for machine embroidery. Silk thread is more costly, but well worth considering.
Metallic Threads:
The quality of metallic thread ranges from very high to very low. A good metallic thread does not require a lubricant.
Quality metallic thread has the following components:
- Nylon core. A nylon core offers the most strength and resists tangling. Polyester and rayon cores are inferior.
- Rice paper construction. This adds strength and cohesiveness and makes the thread more soft and supple, reducing the wiry feel. It also reduces tangling.
- Outer coating. Lower quality metallics have no outer coating. This means the metal foil rubs against the needle, creating friction and heat, resulting in discoloring and shredding. A good metallic has an outer coating which reduces friction and acts as a protective layer.
Nylon Threads:
A synthetic thread occasionally used in the form of a monofilament clear thread or as a textured fuzzy (woollie-like) thread. The negatives far outweigh the positives of nylon. Use only with caution.
Advantages of Nylon:
* Strength
Disadvantages of Nylon:
* Low melting temperature. Not heat resistant.
* Not colorfast. Will yellow over time.
* Becomes brittle through laundering and exposure
TIP:
Snapping the thread before cutting it from the spool makes it less likely to tangle and untwist.
Running the thread through a fold of a dryer sheet keeps the thread from knotting.
Waxing thread with beeswax keeps it from fraying, twisting and knotting. It also makes the thread somewhat stiffer and makes it go through the fabric easier.
If you are hand-sewing your block pieces together, keep them positioned accurately by ironing the pieces on a sheet of freezer paper, laid out as your finished block will look.
Peel one off at a time as you sew it in position.
To make a "Quilter's Knot," hold the threaded needle between your first finger and thumb. Lay the far end of the thread (the end where you want the knot to be) on the needle, with the cut end pointing toward the eye of the needle. Wrap the thread around the needle 3 times, and then slide the needle through the wrappings. Pull the knot to the end of the thread, leaving a "tail" about 1/2" long.
Poke your needle into a small bar of soap as you are quilting, it will make the needle glide through the fabric easier.
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